Polynucleotides: The Skin-Quality Treatment Everyone Is Talking About

If you've been looking into treatments for tired-looking skin, fine lines or the delicate under-eye area, you've definitly come across polynucleotides.

There's been a lot of buzz around polynucleotides lately, and we're getting lots of questions about them at Dr Hala Medical Aesthetic Clinic.

What exactly are polynucleotides? Are they really made from salmon DNA? Are they a filler? Can they help the under-eye area? How many treatments will you need? And what can you expect afterwards?

Let's talk through everything you need to know.

First things first… what are polynucleotides?

Polynucleotides are purified chains of nucleotides, the building blocks that make up DNA.

In aesthetic medicine, they're used as an injectable skin-quality treatment. Rather than adding significant volume or changing the shape of your face, the focus is on improving the condition and appearance of the skin.

You may also hear polynucleotides described as a biostimulatory or regenerative treatment because of the way they interact with the skin and processes involved in tissue repair.

Research into polynucleotides has also reported improvements in skin hydration, elasticity, texture and fine lines.[1,2]

For clients who want their skin to look fresher and healthier without dramatically changing their appearance, this is a big part of their appeal.

Okay… are they really made from salmon sperm?

We knew this question was coming!

Thanks to social media, polynucleotides have acquired nicknames such as the “salmon sperm facial” or “salmon DNA treatment”.

Many polynucleotide products are indeed derived from highly purified DNA originating from salmonid fish, such as salmon or trout.

But you're certainly not having raw salmon sperm injected into your face.

The DNA-derived material goes through extensive purification and manufacturing processes before becoming the injectable product used in aesthetic medicine.

So yes, there is some truth behind the viral headline, but the reality is considerably more sophisticated.

If you have a known fish allergy, make sure you mention this during your consultation.

So, what do polynucleotides actually do and how do they work?

This is where things get interesting.

Rather than simply filling a line or adding volume, polynucleotides are used with the aim of improving the quality of the skin itself.

Think of polynucleotides as working with your skin rather than simply adding something to it.

Once injected into the skin, polynucleotides create a supportive, hydrating environment and interact with processes involved in skin repair and remodelling. They are often described as a biostimulatory treatment because they support fibroblast activity, the cells involved in producing important components of healthy skin, including collagen.

Depending on your skin and the area being treated, clients may notice improvements in:

• hydration

• fine lines

• skin texture

• elasticity

• crepey-looking skin

• overall skin quality

A systematic review looking at the available research reported improvements in wrinkles, skin texture and elasticity following polynucleotide treatment.[2]

The improvement happens gradually, which is why polynucleotides can be such a lovely option for clients who prefer a natural-looking result.

Think healthier, smoother, firmer and fresher-looking skin, rather than an overnight change to the way your face looks.

What happens during a polynucleotide treatment?

If you've never had polynucleotides before, you might be wondering what actually happens at your appointment.

The treatment itself is relatively straightforward:

1. We start with a consultation

Before anything else, we'll talk about your concerns and what you'd like to improve. This is also your opportunity to ask as many questions as you like.

2. We prepare your skin

The treatment area is thoroughly cleansed and prepared. Depending on the area being treated and the product used, we can also discuss ways of making the procedure as comfortable as possible.

3. The polynucleotides are injected

The product is carefully placed into the skin using a series of small injections.

You may notice little raised bumps at the injection points immediately afterwards – don't panic! This is expected and they usually settle as the product disperses.

4. And that's it!

Once we've finished, we'll check the treated area and talk you through your aftercare.

5. Aftercare

After your treatment, it's best to keep things simple and give your skin a little time to settle.

For the first 24 hours, avoid touching or rubbing the treated area unnecessarily, strenuous exercise, saunas, steam rooms and excessive heat. We'd also recommend avoiding alcohol and make-up immediately after treatment and keeping your skincare gentle.

You may notice some temporary redness, swelling, bruising or small bumps around the injection points, these usually settle naturally.

And don't forget your SPF! Protect your skin from excessive sun exposure and use a good broad-spectrum sunscreen.

Why is everyone talking about polynucleotides for the under eyes?

The under-eye area is probably where polynucleotides have attracted the most attention.

And there's a good reason behind this!

The skin around our eyes is particularly thin and delicate. As we age, changes in collagen, elasticity, hydration and facial anatomy can make fine lines, crepiness and a tired appearance more noticeable.

Because polynucleotides focus on skin quality rather than simply adding volume, they can be an interesting option for appropriately selected clients.

Also, clinical research around the eyes has reported improvements including hydration, elasticity and skin roughness following polynucleotide treatment.[3]

This makes the under-eye area one of the areas we consider when clients tell us:

“I look tired even when I'm not tired.”

Will polynucleotides get rid of my dark circles?

This is one of the questions we hear most often, and the answer depends on why your under-eye area looks dark in the first place.

Dark circles can have several different causes, including pigmentation, visible blood vessels, thin skin, hollowing, shadowing, eye bags or a combination of these.

If skin quality is contributing to the tired appearance, polynucleotides may be a treatment worth considering.

However, different causes require different approaches, which is why we always assess the under-eye area before recommending treatment.

Are polynucleotides the same as filler?

No! And this is an important difference.

Dermal filler is generally used when we want to restore or add volume, provide structural support or alter facial contours.

Polynucleotides are primarily used when we're interested in skin quality.

So if you're thinking:

“I want my skin to look fresher, but I don't want to add volume or change my face…”

Then polynucleotides may be something worth discussing during your consultation.

Neither treatment is necessarily better than the other. They simply have different purposes.

What about Botox®? Are polynucleotides similar?

No. They work in completely different ways.

Botulinum toxin is commonly used to reduce the movement of specific facial muscles, which can soften certain expression lines.

Polynucleotides don't work by reducing muscle movement.

Instead, the focus is on the quality and condition of the skin.

Depending on your concerns, both treatments may have different roles within your aesthetic treatment plan.

Polynucleotides or Profhilo® – which is better?

Another question we hear a lot.

The answer is: it depends on your skin and what you're trying to achieve.

Profhilo® is based on hyaluronic acid, while polynucleotide treatments use purified nucleotide chains.

Both may be discussed when we're looking at improving skin quality, but they aren't interchangeable treatments and they don't contain the same ingredients.

Rather than deciding which treatment is “best” because you've seen it on Instagram or TikTok, we'd much rather start with one question:

What would you actually like to improve about your skin?

Once we know that, we can recommend the treatment that makes the most sense for you.

Will polynucleotides change my face?

This is actually one of the reasons many clients are attracted to the treatment.

The aim isn't usually to change your facial proportions or make you look noticeably “done”.

Polynucleotides are generally chosen when we're looking for subtle, progressive improvements in skin quality.

Think:

“You look really well.”

Rather than:

“What have you had done?”

For clients who want natural-looking results, this can be a very good option for them.

Does polynucleotide treatment hurt?

We won't tell you that you'll feel absolutely nothing, these are injections, after all.

Polynucleotides are usually administered through a series of small injections into the treatment area, so you will feel the procedure to some degree.

Some areas, particularly around the eyes, can be more sensitive than others.

What will I look like afterwards?

Immediately afterwards, you may notice small raised bumps where the product has been injected.

You may also experience some temporary:

• redness

• swelling

• tenderness

• bruising

• visible injection marks

These effects are usually temporary, and published studies have generally reported mild and short-lived injection-site reactions.[1,2]

The under-eye area can swell more noticeably in some people, so we'd always recommend giving yourself a little breathing room before an important event.

Low downtime doesn't necessarily mean no downtime.

How many polynucleotide treatments will I need?

Polynucleotides are generally approached as a course of treatment rather than a one-off appointment.

Exactly how many sessions you need depends on the product being used, the area we're treating, your skin and what we're hoping to achieve.

Three sessions spaced roughly four weeks apart is a commonly reported approach in clinical practice,[4] although your individual treatment plan may differ.

At Dr Hala Medical Aesthetic Clinic, we'll recommend a treatment plan based on your individual assessment rather than automatically putting everyone onto exactly the same schedule.

When will I see my results?

Patience is important with this one.

Polynucleotides aren't normally an instant-results treatment because we're looking for progressive improvements in the quality and appearance of the skin.

Changes tend to develop over the weeks following treatment and throughout your treatment course.

You may begin noticing that your skin looks smoother, fresher, more hydrated and generally healthier.

And because the aim is gradual improvement rather than dramatic alteration, the results can look beautifully natural.

How long do polynucleotide results last?

Results and longevity vary from person to person.

Your skin, age, lifestyle, treatment area, the product used, your initial treatment course and your individual response can all influence how long you enjoy the benefits.

Maintenance treatments may be recommended to help sustain your results.

During your consultation, we'll take you through what you can realistically expect based on your skin and treatment plan.

Are polynucleotides safe and who are they suitable for?

Current published research suggests that polynucleotides are generally well tolerated, with temporary injection-site reactions among the most commonly reported side effects.[1,2]

The product being used matters. The person performing your treatment matters. Understanding facial anatomy matters. And appropriate client selection matters.

Polynucleotides aren't appropriate for everybody. There may be situations where treatment needs to be avoided or postponed, including certain medical conditions, medications, allergies, pregnancy or breastfeeding, or active infection or inflammation around the treatment area.

If you have a known fish allergy, this is particularly important to mention.

Before proceeding, your medical history, medications, allergies and previous aesthetic treatments will be discussed, and your suitability will always be assessed individually.

Can polynucleotides be combined with other treatments?

Yes, in appropriate clients they may form part of a wider treatment plan alongside other aesthetic or skin treatments.

But we always come back to the same principle:

What does your skin actually need?

Sometimes one treatment is enough. Sometimes a carefully planned combination of treatments can help us address several different concerns.

The right combination, and the right timing, depends on your skin, your goals and your individual assessment.

So… are polynucleotides worth it?

For the right client, polynucleotides can be a fantastic option, particularly if you're saying:

“I don't necessarily want to change my face. I just want my skin to look better.”

Research has reported good improvements in areas such as hydration, elasticity, fine lines and skin texture.[1–3]

For us, however, the most important part is choosing the treatment for the right reasons.

At Dr Hala Medical Aesthetic Clinic, we'll assess your skin, listen to what is bothering you and recommend a treatment plan based on what you're actually hoping to achieve.

Because good aesthetic medicine shouldn't be about chasing every new treatment.

It should be about choosing the right treatment for you.

Thinking About Polynucleotides?

If you're curious about polynucleotides but aren't sure whether they're right for your skin, that's exactly what a consultation is for.

Book your complimentary consultation with us at Dr Hala Medical Aesthetic Clinic. We'll assess your skin, listen to what you would like to improve and talk you through the options available.

Our philosophy is simple: The treatment should fit the client, not the other way around.

References & Further Reading

1. Cavallini M, Bartoletti E, Maioli L, et al. Consensus report on the use of PN-HPT™ (polynucleotides highly purified technology) in aesthetic medicine. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2021;20(3):922–928.

2. The Effectiveness of Polynucleotides in Esthetic Medicine: A Systematic Review. Published 2024. PMID: 39645667.

3. Comparison of the Effects of Polynucleotide and Hyaluronic Acid Fillers on Periocular Rejuvenation: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Split-Face Trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. PMID: 32248707.

4. A Survey on the Cosmetic Use of Injectable Polynucleotide: The Pattern of Practice Among Korean Dermatologists. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. PMID: 38093498.